Your charge
The currency is whatever you enter. Charging losses and cold-weather effects are not applied.
Only the part you actually add
Charging from 20% to 80% of a 60 kWh battery moves 36 kWh, not 60. Multiply by your tariff per kWh and that is the cost. The two ends are where the arithmetic hides: nobody charges from empty to full, so a "full charge" price is usually the wrong number.
The tariff swings more than anything else
Charging overnight at home and charging at a motorway rapid can differ by a factor of four for the same kilowatt-hours. Which one you mostly use decides your running cost far more than the car does, which is why home charging changes the sums so completely.
Efficiency falls in the cold
Battery chemistry slows in low temperatures and cabin heating draws directly from the pack. Winter range commonly drops 20–30% against a mild day, so the efficiency you enter should be the one you actually see in the season you are planning for.
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Frequently asked questions
Q. Why stop at 80%?
The last stretch charges much more slowly, because the current has to taper to protect the cells. On a rapid charger the time from 80% to 100% can rival the time from 20% to 80%, which is why long-trip advice is to leave earlier rather than wait.
Q. Do I pay for the energy that goes in or the energy stored?
What goes in. Charging losses mean a few per cent more leaves the charger than reaches the battery, so a metered session bills slightly above the figure here.
Q. How do I compare this against petrol?
Use the cost per 100 km shown below and work out the same figure for the petrol car: consumption per 100 km times the fuel price. Comparing per-kWh against per-litre prices tells you nothing.