Your car, per year
The currency is whatever you enter. Depreciation is not included.
The yearly bills outweigh the sticker price
Buyers stare at the purchase price, but the money that actually leaves is the recurring kind: fuel, insurance, tax, servicing, parking, year after year. Add one year of it up and divide by twelve, and "what this car costs me a month" stops being a guess — over ten years the recurring side commonly overtakes what the car cost to buy.
Some of it runs while the car stands still
Insurance, tax and a parking space fall due whether you drive or not. If those fixed items dominate your total, driving less will barely lower the bill — the lever is a cheaper policy, a cheaper space, or asking whether the car earns its keep at all.
The more you drive, the cheaper each kilometre
The fixed part spreads across every kilometre you cover, so a car driven 5,000 km a year can cost more than twice as much per kilometre as the same car at 12,000. That per-kilometre figure is the honest one to hold against a train ticket — the fuel for a single trip is only its smallest part.
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Frequently asked questions
Q. Which currency does this use?
Whichever you enter. Every money field is a plain yearly amount, and the results come back in the same unit — nothing is assumed about where you live.
Q. I drive an electric car.
Set fuel economy to 0 so the fuel line stays empty, then add your yearly charging cost to any of the yearly fields — the total does not care which row carries it. The EV charging calculator can give you that yearly number.
Q. Where is depreciation?
Not in the total, and for a newer car it is often the single biggest cost — the value a car sheds in a year can exceed fuel and insurance together. If you want it counted, estimate one year of value loss and add it to any yearly field.